Black History Month is the perfect time to shine light on the extraordinary impact Black designers have had on the entire jewelry industry. From pioneering art jewelry in past decades to driving modern trends with innovative designs and bold cultural statements, Black jewelers have continuously reshaped how we think about adornment and craftsmanship.

A Historical Tapestry of Artistry

Long before contemporary designers captured the spotlight, Black artists were crafting pieces that told stories of resilience, creativity, and transformation. An interesting piece by Art Jewelry Forum - a part of its "Black Jewelers: A History Revealed" series - detailed how designers such as Winifred Mason and Bill Smith brought fresh perspectives during historical moments like the Harlem Renaissance. Their use of unique materials like repurposed coal and unconventional metals challenged the status quo in jewelry design. Above all, their creativity and eye-catching designs left a permanent and lasting mark on American art culture.

The Art Jewelry Forum’s series focused on reclaiming stories of these fantastic and largely influential jewelers, that otherwise would have been lost to time. More than just the history of aesthetics, this series told a story about Black jewelry designers fighting against systemic erasure in an industry dominated by narrow narratives.

Spotlight on Historical Designers

There are many historical jewelry designers, but we wanted to focus on some of our new favorites; as well as some that are not widely known.

Bill Smith, Curtis Tann and Betye Saar (née Brown)

Jewelry designers Bill Smith (left), Betye Saar and Curtis Tann (right)

As chronicled by the Art Jewelry Forum, these artists not only pushed the boundaries of materials and design but also navigated complex social landscapes, ensuring that their work would be remembered even as the mainstream overlooked it.

Smith’s designs were featured on the covers of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar in the 60's and 70's. His art was modelled by celebrities like Twiggy and Cher.

Saar started her art career on paper, where she explored printmaking and mixed media assemblage. She later went on to become a jewelry designer. In the 1940’s, Saar befriended Tann, an enamel artist. The two became business partners and formed Tann and Brown, a company that incorporated the specialities of both artists. The two worked together to create pieces of enamel and jewelry - in addition to other art. Their work gained notoriety after it was featured in Ebony Magazine.  

Patrick Kelly

Jewelry designer Patrick Kelly

Known widely for his bold style in the fashion world, Kelly’s ventures into jewelry design - noted by bold pins and striking embellishments - left an undeniable mark on both fashion and jewelry aesthetics.

Kelly’s pieces also explored issues of segregation and notably racist and anti-black images to disrupt the narrative and reclaim these symbols of hate to empower African Americans. His jewelry was sold in famous stores like Bloomingdales and Bergdorf Goodman.

Bette Davis wearing a Patrick Kelly Button Brooch (left), Patrick Kelly's logo (right)

Coreen Simpson and Vaughn Stubbs

Jewelry designers Coreen Simpson (left) and Vaughn Stubbs (right)

Simpson and Stubbs are two lesser-known Black jewelry designers, but they undoubtedly represent the modern days. Both designers continue to celebrate cultural heritage today, while innovating with contemporary techniques. Their work puts great inferences on the importance of maintaining a dialogue between past and present, ensuring that Black voices remain integral to the evolution of art jewelry.

Simpson’s most notable collection - The Black Cameo - was appreciated by many, including Oprah Winfrey. This jewelry collection featured a variety of portraits of black women and aimed to provide representation for every black woman.

Wedgwood lady brooch by Vaughn Stubbs, Image courtesy of Hedendaagse sieraden

Subbs’s pieces incorporated elements from Greek Mythology, European Art History and Pop Art. He often mixed sophistication and kitsch to make his jewelry, mainly brooches.

Winifred Mason Chenet

Ebony Magazine cover featuring Winifred Mason Jewelry Designer

Working during the Harlem Renaissance, Mason designed pieces using copper and brass. Believed to be one of the very first commercial African American jewelers in the United States, Mason’s designs were inspired by Haitian culture. Mason designed pieces for several great jazz artists of her time, including Billie Holiday.

Art Smith

Jewelry designer Arthur George "Art" Smith

An apprentice of Winifred Mason Chenet, Art Smith was a mid-century jewelry designer known for his work with bronze. Called the “founding father” of Black jewelry design, Smith was instrumental to the jewelry industry and helped to shape it into what it is today.

One of Smith’s brace necklaces was displayed at Sotheby’s selling exhibit titled "Brilliant and Black: A Jewelry Renaissance”.

Jewelry designer Arthur George "Art" Smith

Contemporary Influence: Merging Heritage with Modernism

Today, the legacy of these Black designers and trailblazers continues to evolve. A CNN feature on contemporary pieces highlighted how Black jewelers commanded major attention in prestigious spaces, such as Sotheby’s auctions. Works of art in all categories by well-known personalities like Andy Warhol, Greta Garbo, Damien Hirst, and Picasso have been sold through the selling channels of Sotheby’s, making it the world’s leading destination for purchasing exceptional art and luxurious objects.

These Sotheby’s auction events not only celebrated the inherent beauty of each piece from iconic Black designers, but also validated their historical contributions by placing their works in the global spotlight.

Modern Black jewelry designers are blending heritage with innovation to create pieces that speak to both cultural pride and modern luxury. One of Vogue’s articles on Black jewelry designers served as both a call-to-action and a celebration of the creativity fueling the industry today. Their work stands as a testament to how historical narratives can be transformed into contemporary masterpieces that resonate with diverse audiences.

Beyond February: Year-Round Recognition

While February offers a dedicated time to reflect on Black history and contributions, the influence of Black designers in jewelry is a year-round story. Their work reminds us that Black creativity is not confined to a single month, but rather a continuous source of innovation and inspiration that shapes culture, challenges the norms, and redefines beauty standards.

Supporting historical Black designers, and designers and jewelers of today, means more than purchasing a piece of jewelry. It means endorsing a legacy of resilience, celebrating cultural heritage, and empowering voices that have historically been silenced or even removed.

Final Thoughts

The rich history and vibrant present of Black jewelry designs tell a story of transformation and unyielding creativity. From the past to today, the influence of Black jewelers and jewelry designers is widespread. Black designers have carved a niche that defies convention and inspires future generations. Their journey - from resilience in the face of racism, denial of access and lack of exposure to modern-day recognition at prestigious auctions - is a narrative that deserves to be celebrated and shared every day.

As we honor Black History Month, let’s remember that every piece of jewelry carries more than its shine; it carries the legacy of visionary artists who dared to redefine beauty on their own terms.

References

Art Jewelry Forum article; Black Jewelers: A History Revealed - Rediscovery
CNN article; Black jewelers take center stage at groundbreaking exhibition
Vogue article; 41 Black Jewelry Designers to Support Now and Always
New York City Jewelry Week article; A Return to Legacy: Exploring African American Jewelry Heritage