The Details of Gold Jewelry: Understanding the Different Types

Article published at: May 28, 2024
gold plated jewelry with stone accents shining in the sun
All Minna's Corner

When it comes to choosing jewelry, gold has always been a timeless favorite. Every type of gold jewelry has its own unique characteristics, benefits, and pros/cons, and comparing the different types can help you make the best decision when you are considering adding a new piece to your collection. So, let's breakdown each type one-by-one. 

Image: Visual of the different types of gold jewelry; credit: Ayou Jewelry

Solid Gold Jewelry

14k solid gold herringbone chain necklace by Oradina

Composition
Solid gold jewelry is made of gold in varying purities. The purity of gold is measured in karats such as 10k, 14k, 18k, or 24k. Pure gold is 24 karats, but jewelry is often crafted from gold alloys to increase durability. Common alloys include copper, silver, and zinc.

The lower the karat of gold the higher the amount of gold alloys present. The decreased gold purity also means a lighter gold color. 

24k is the purest form of gold and the darkest

18k gold is 75% pure gold
14k gold is 58.3% pure gold
12k gold is 50% pure gold
10k gold is approximately 42% pure gold 

Appearance
Solid gold jewelry has a rich, luxurious appearance that doesn't tarnish or fade over time. Its color and shine remains intact for generations, making it a prized item.

Durability
Solid gold, depending on the karat, is highly durable and doesn't tarnish, making it suitable for everyday wear. Solid gold jewelry is extremely durable. Pure 24k gold is soft and is not commonly used to make jewelry. Gold, being a noble metal, is resistant to corrosion and oxidation. Like anything else, solid gold jewelry still requires proper care to last and maintain its beauty and value.

Cost
Solid gold jewelry tends to be more expensive due to the higher gold content, purity, and expected longevity. While it may involve a larger upfront investment, its timeless appeal and lasting quality make it a valuable asset. 

Jewelry made with lower karat gold will be less expensive, but will still cost reasonably more than the other types of gold jewelry. Oradina's 14k gold herringbone chain necklace currently starts at $575.

Maintenance
Solid gold jewelry still requires maintenance, although the maintenance is minimal; regular cleaning with a mild soap and water solution, followed by polishing with a soft cloth, can keep it looking new for many news.

Gold Filled Jewelry

18k Brazilian gold filled gold herringbone necklace by Simple & Dainty

Composition
Gold filled jewelry is made by bonding a thick layer of gold onto a base metal core (typically brass or sterling silver) through a mechanical bonding process or heat fusion. The gold layer in gold filled jewelry can be thicker than that of gold plated jewelry, usually around 5% to 10% of the total weight of the item - which can make these pieces relatively heavy. 

Durability
Gold filled jewelry is can be more durable than gold plated jewelry; this mainly depends on if the gold layer is thicker. However, gold filled jewelry is less durable than solid gold pieces.

Cost
Gold filled pieces are more expensive than gold plated jewelry, but more affordable than solid gold jewelry. The 18k gold filled herringbone necklace by Simple & Dainty currently starts at $73.

Maintenance
Gold filled jewelry requires gentle care to preserve the gold layer, but it can withstand regular wear, much like gold plated jewelry.

Pros:

  1. Durability: The thick layer of gold in gold filled jewelry is less prone to tarnishing and wear, retaining its appearance for a longer period.
  2. Hypoallergenic: Since the outer layer of gold is usually thick in gold filled jewelry, there's less direct contact with the base metal, reducing the risk of allergic reactions for most people.

Cons:

  1. Cost: Gold filled jewelry is generally more expensive than gold plated jewelry due to the thicker layer of gold, but less expensive than solid gold and gold vermeil pieces.
  2. Limited Availability: While gold filled jewelry offers better durability than gold plated pieces, it is not readily available in various designs or styles, limiting your jewelry options.

Gold Vermeil Jewelry

18k gold vermeil herringbone chain necklace by Mejuri

Composition
Gold vermeil, pronounced "ver-may," is a higher-quality alternative to gold plated jewelry. It consists of a thick layer of gold (typically ranging from 2.5 to 3 microns) coated over a base of sterling silver - compared to gold filled jewelry which can be over other base metals like brass.  

Durability
Gold vermeil offers a balance between affordability and durability, with a thicker gold layer compared to gold plated jewelry.

Cost
Gold vermeil jewelry is typically more expensive than gold plated and gold filled jewelry, but more affordable than solid gold. Mejuri's 18k gold vermeil herringbone chain necklace currently starts at $198.

Maintenance
These pieces still require careful maintenance to prevent the gold layer from wearing off, but it still offers a luxurious look at a more accessible price point when compared to solid gold jewelry. 

Pros:

  1. Durability: The thicker layer of gold makes gold vermeil jewelry more resistant to tarnishing and wear.
  2. Value: Gold vermeil offers a balance between affordability and quality, providing a luxurious appearance without the hefty price tag of solid gold.

Cons:

  1. Care: While more durable than gold plated jewelry, gold vermeil still requires proper care to maintain its appearance.
  2. Sensitivity: Some individuals may be allergic to the silver base metal used in gold vermeil jewelry, although this is less common than reactions to other metals.

Gold Plated Jewelry

18k gold plated classic herringbone necklace by Twenty-Eight Minna

Composition
Gold plated jewelry is made by electroplating a layer of gold onto a base metal such as brass, copper, sterling silver, and stainless steel. The thickness of the gold layer can vary, ranging from 0.5 to 3 microns. 

Appearance
Gold plated jewelry offers the lustrous appearance of gold at a fraction of the cost. 

Durability
While gold plated jewelry can be quite affordable, the layer of gold can wear off over time, especially with frequent wear, excessive exposure to moisture, or contact with harsh chemicals. Ultimately, the durability of gold plated jewelry depends on the wearer and how well they take care of their pieces. 

Cost
One of the main advantages of gold plated jewelry is its affordability. It allows you to enjoy the look of gold without a large upfront investment. The classic herringbone chain necklace by Twenty-Eight Minna currently costs $65.

Maintenance
To prolong the lifespan of gold plated pieces, it's essential to handle it with care. This means avoiding harsh chemicals, excessive and prolonged exposure to moisture, and abrasive surfaces. Gently cleaning your gold plated pieces with a soft cloth after every few wears will help to maintain its shine.

Pros:

  1. Affordability: Gold plated jewelry tends to be more affordable than solid gold, gold filled, and vermeil pieces, making it an attractive option for those on a budget or who want to be able to switch up their jewelry often. 
  2. Variety: Because it's relatively inexpensive to produce, gold plated jewelry comes in a wide range of designs and styles, catering to diverse styles and jewelry aesthetics.
  3. Hypoallergenic: When made with base metals like stainless steel and sterling silver, gold plated jewelry has the added benefit of being gentle on sensitive skin. 

Cons:

  1. Durability: The thin layer of gold on gold plated jewelry can wear off over time, especially with frequent wear or exposure to moisture and chemicals. However, properly caring for your pieces can ensure long-term wear. 

Final Thoughts

When choosing between the main four types of gold jewelry it is a great idea to consider your budget, desired durability, and your care preferences. Solid gold jewelry is a timeless investment, while gold plated, gold filled, and gold vermeil options offer more affordable alternatives with varying levels of durability and longevity.

Gold plated jewelry is high-quality and durable, when properly cared for. Its affordability, luxurious appearance, and versatility makes it our favorite for curated and custom-made pieces. Our pieces are made for your well-lived life journey! Visit our website today to explore our collection of stunning jewelry, all made with stainless steel and sterling silver plated with genuine 14-karat or 18-karat gold.

-MM

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